OldSewinGear News Reviews & How To's

Hide and Seek - Singer Sewing Machine Cabinet.

12/15/2013

Looking for a convenient way to use and store your vintage sewing machine? Sewing machine cabinets offer several benefits, including a flat surface at just the right height for long hours of sewing. The knee lever keeps those pesky cords and pedals off the floor. And when you're done you can tuck the machine away, close the lid, and forget about it until the next time.

So exactly how does a cabinet work?

If you've already read the article Rock-a-Bye Baby: Singer 301 Cabinet Cradle you've seen pictures of the 301 installed in a sewing cabinet. But would you like to see it in motion?

Setting up your Machine:

Stowing away your machine:

And there you have it. Quick and easy to do. So if you're interested in a cabinet, keep your eyes open at your local thrift store or garage sales. There are many different styles to choose from, some with drawers, some without. Some large, some small.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

4 Comments

How to thread a Japanese Class 15 bobbin

8/16/2013

2 Comments

Japanese Class 15 "clone"

If you've already read "Bobbin Case Basics" you won't be surprised by anything you read here. But you may find it helpful if you own one of the many Singer 15 "clones" built in Japan.

Japanese 15 clones use the same bobbin as the Singer 15 machines, but the bobbin case is set up backwards. The flat tension spring is on the opposite side, which means the thread wraps in the opposite direction when you insert the bobbin in the case.

However the basic principle of bobbin loading is the same whether you are loading a Singer 15 or a Japanese 15 bobbin: the thread slides under the tension spring in the opposite direction that it wraps on the bobbin.

Threading Japanese Class 15 bobbin case

Here's the step-by-step:

1. Hold bobbin case in left hand with open side facing right and slotted groove pointing toward you.
2. Hold bobbin in right hand with thread wrapping AWAY from you over the top of the bobbin.
3. Insert bobbin into case with a right to left motion.
4. Pull thread into the slotted groove.
5. Slide thread TOWARD you and DOWN along the tension spring until thread pops into notch at the bottom.
6. Load bobbin into machine.

There, wasn't that easy?

When in doubt, refer to your machine's instruction manual for specific instructions. Or you can visit our "Cheat Sheets" page for printable reference sheets.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara

OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

2 Comments

Feed-Dog Days of Summer

8/12/2013

3 Comments

Morse 200 De Luxe drop feed knob

Time to answer another "How do I..." question!

Today's contestant is the ever-popular "How do I drop the feed dogs for free motion embroidery or darning?"

That is an excellent question.
Some machines make it very easy with a clearly labeled knob or lever. Other models like to play hide and seek with the drop feed feature.

First of all, it's a good idea to find out if your machine HAS a drop-feed feature. Basic models such as the 221 Featherweight, 99K, and 185K don't have a drop feed, so you can save yourself the hassle of looking.

But many of the full-size Singer models DO have drop feed; it's just a matter of finding it.

"How do I drop the feed dogs?

Singer 15-91 Drop Feed

Singer's 15-91 is one of the "hide and seek" models. If you have the manual, it tells you where to find it, but it's not obvious when you're looking at the machine.

You have to tilt the machine backwards to access a knob located beneath the machine. It isn't marked, but it's located at the front left underneath the machine, as indicated in the above photo.

(Singer could have learned a thing or two from the Japanese on this one. The Toyota-built Morse 200 pictured at the beginning of the article has a drop feed feature that is a thing of beauty and easy to find! The Japanese didn't just clone the Singer 15, they improved on it!)

Singer 201-2 drop feed knob

Depending on the year of production, the screw may be chrome-plated or WW II-era "Black side."

You'll find the drop feed knob in this same location on Singer's 15-125 and 201-2 models.

Singer 301 drop feed knob

Singer 301 Slant Needle has a different drop-feed location. It's still underneath, but you don't have to tip the machine up. Instead, you flip up the end table and the drop feed knob is located just to the rear of the bobbin case. It isn't labeled, but it is a little easier to find.

Singer 401A throat plate position lever

Singer did a better job of labeling on the 401 and 500 slant needle machines, but still missed the mark in user friendliness. The "Throat Plate Position" lever is located at the front of the sewing platform right next to the spindle for bobbin winding.

It's easy to find, but nothing to get excited about, because it isn't really a drop feed feature.

Singer 401A needle plate in darning position

Rather than drop the feed, the lever raises the needle plate above the level of the feed dogs so that fabric slides freely. It works ok, but it's a little funky because it creates a harsh edge to hook things on.

Singer 411G darning collar

Singer attempted to mitigate the weak design by including a nifty rubber collar on the 411G, but never included it on the Anderson-built machines. The rubber collar helps a bit, but a true drop feed feature would have been nicer!

Singer 306 darning needle plate

Singer took a completely different approach on other machines, such as the 306.

Rather than messing around with levers or knobs, they simply included another needle plate with a raised portion that rode above the feed dogs.

So if your Singer doesn't have a drop feed adjustment, check to see if there's a darning needle plate available.

Still wondering how to drop the feed on your machine? If you have the instruction manual for your machine, look under "Darning" to see if there are instructions for dropping the feed dogs or elevating the sewing surface.

Have fun with your game of hide and seek. But remember, these old machines play to win!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

3 Comments

Under Pressure - Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

7/17/2013

1 Comment

Pressure adjustment - Singer 401A

Ever wondered what this thing does?

I never really gave it any thought until quite recently.

A few weeks ago I was testing out a Singer 401A prior to listing it for sale and the darn thing WOULD NOT sew leather. The thread would fuzz up every few stitches and then it would break.

I tried everything I could think of. I changed needles, I changed thread, I changed leather. I cursed and swore and kicked the trash can. (Not really, but it makes for a better story!)

Finally I took a deep breath and watched what was happening when the needle was going up and down through the leather. I noticed that the presser foot was "hopping" up and down with each stitch, which created a sawing effect on the thread.

That's when I discovered the importance of this little knob. It's the pressure adjustment for the presser foot. On the machine in question the pressure was too light and the presser foot wasn't holding the leather firmly enough to allow the needle to travel cleanly through.

So I gave the knob a little turn to the right and it was better. A little fine tuning and it was perfect.

500A pressure adjustment

Of course the pressure will need to be backed off to sew lighter fabrics but that's the beauty of adjustable pressure!

On most vintage Singer machines (and Class 15 clones) the pressure adjustment can be found at the top of the machine directly above the presser foot lever.

Turning the knob clockwise increases pressure, turning it counter-clockwise reduces pressure. You should be able to feel increased or decreased resistance when you lift the presser foot lever.

The pressure adjustment looks a little different on the 500A, 503A and 600-series Touch and Sew models. It's located inside the end cover and looks like a wheel with numbered settings. The higher the number, the greater the pressure.

So now you know...that little knob is the key to even greater creative expression and control!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

1 Comment

Kicked to the Curb: Packaging for Shipping

7/12/2013

3 Comments

If you are buying (or selling) a vintage sewing machine online, it really does matter how the machine is packaged for shipping. A flimsy cardboard box and wadded up newspaper simply does not cut it.

Why?

For starters, vintage sewing machines are often very heavy. Shipping weight for a well-packaged Singer 301A runs about 23 pounds, while the Singer 401A is closer to 30 pounds, and a Singer 15-91 can weigh upwards of 38 pounds. That's a lot of heavy metal that needs protection in transit.

After all, packages aren't handled by people these days. They are bar-coded and fed through automated routing facilities with conveyor belts and bins. Transitions between one conveyor and another can mean a sudden drop of several feet. It doesn't matter whether you've marked the box "Fragile" or "Handle with Care" or "This Side Up." The machines can't read and besides that, they just don't care.

Back when we started selling machines we were advised to package each machine to withstand a kick down a flight of stairs. So that's what we do. And we haven't had a shipping loss yet.

So how should a machine be packaged? Here are some photos of a Singer 15-91 ready to ship:

We start with appliance grade cardboard. As shown in the photos, this cardboard is double the thickness of ordinary cardboard, which makes it more rigid and durable. Next we custom cut and fabricate each box to fit the machine in question.

The box is then lined with a minimum of 2" of foam board to hug the machine snugly on all sides. The goal is to maximize shock absorption by completely immobilizing the machine within the box.

Foot controls and accessories are bubble-wrapped to fit inside the machine. If the accessories do not fit inside the machine we ship them in a separate box.

Machine is wrapped in plastic to prevent foam particles from getting inside the machine.

All cavities are filled with bubblewrap or foam peanuts.

Finally, a foam block is placed across the top of the machine. The block is shaped to fit the machine and protect exposed spindles.

Reinforced tape is used for box seams and all flaps are sealed with heavy-duty packaging tape.

Of course there are other ways to package machines and there are many reputable sellers who take equal pride in their packaging.   Some use shrink wrap or box-within-box packaging, which also work very well. This is just an overview of the process that has served us well for the last 6 years. We've yet to have a machine damaged during shipping. But we always include shipping insurance "just in case."

So if you're looking to buy or sell a vintage machine, take the time to ensure that your investment is well-packaged. There is nothing more disappointing or frustrating than opening the box and finding a broken machine.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

3 Comments

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Hide and Seek - Singer Sewing Machine Cabinet.

Setting up your Machine:

Stowing away your machine:

How to thread a Japanese Class 15 bobbin

Feed-Dog Days of Summer

Under Pressure - Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

Kicked to the Curb: Packaging for Shipping

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Hide and Seek - Singer Sewing Machine Cabinet.

Setting up your Machine:

Stowing away your machine:

How to thread a Japanese Class 15 bobbin

Feed-Dog Days of Summer

Under Pressure - Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

Kicked to the Curb: Packaging for Shipping

News, Reviews, & How-To's

Contact Us

Categories

Archives

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