OldSewinGear News Reviews & How To's

Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

6/15/2013

Single-thread chain stitch basting.

If you've every played with a toy sewing machine, you know what chain stitch looks like.

So maybe you think it's kid stuff.

But did you know that Singer made full-size "grown-up" machines that also sew chain stitch.

What exactly is chain stitch? Is it useful? Which Singer models have a chain stitch feature?

Good questions! Let's answer them.

First let's briefly review how a sewing machine works.

A sewing machine typically has two threads. The top thread passes through the needle and the bottom thread is wound on a bobbin. When the needle point pierces through the fabric it draws the top thread down to where a hook grabs the thread and wraps it around the bobbin thread before releasing the top thread.  When the needle raises back up through the fabric the two threads are "locked" together to form a complete stitch.

Chain stitch is different because it uses a single thread.  When the needle pierces through the fabric, the machine loops the top thread around itself, forming a series of interlocking loops.  From the top it looks like a normal straight stitch, but from the bottom it looks like a chain.

The beauty of chain stitch can also be its fatal flaw, because chain stitched seams can be removed with a single tug on the end thread.

Which is great if you WANT to sew a temporary seam, but a real frustration if need a permanent seam. You can lose an hour's work in seconds if you pull on the wrong thread.

Which is why chain stitch is typically reserved for toys or handheld "quick repair" sewing tools. But there are situations when a temporary stitch is a desirable tool for dressmaking or quilting.

Which is why Singer included chain stitch as a feature on some Slant-o-Matic and Touch & Sew Models.

Which ones? Let's take a look:

411G, 600E, and 603E are notable examples of chain-stitch capability along with steel gears and a slant needle. Most Touch & Sew models have chain stitch capability, but beware of plastic gears!

So if you're looking for a heavy duty machine or quilting machine with the added bonus of chain-stitch basting keep an eye out for one of these remarkable machines!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

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How to use a Singer Special Disc

5/15/2013

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Singer Special Disc #16

Ever wondered how to use a Singer Special Disc?

It's actually pretty simple!

First, select the stitch pattern you want to use. There are 24 discs available for the Slant-o-Matic and early Touch & Sew machines. They are numbered 0-23, with 0 being standard zigzag and 23 being basting stitch.

Next, open the lid on the top of your machine:

Check to see if there is already a disc in the machine:

500 disc compartment WITH disc

500 disc compartment WITHOUT disc

Singer 401 stitch selector knob.

If there is already a disc in the machine, you will need to remove it before inserting the disc of your choice.

To remove or insert a disc you may need to adjust the knob or lever settings on your machine.

If you have a 401, 411, 500, or 600 model, make sure the stitch selector is NOT on "Special."

Singer 600 stitch selector levers

Singer 500 stitch selector knob

403 stitch width lever

If your machine is a 403, 503, or 603 model, set the stitch width lever to "S" or "STR".

Grasp the raised center portion of the disc firmly and pull straight up. There's no special trick to this. As my dad always says, "Pull hard and it'll come easy."

Now you're ready to insert your chosen disc. Line up the holes in the disc with the two posts in the disc compartment.

Press disc firmly into place. There should be a slight click when it's fully seated.

Let's look at it in motion:

Next, readjust knobs & levers for Special Disc sewing.

For 401, 411, and 500 machines, set large center knob at "B" on the left and "Special" on the right. For 600 machines, set the upper stitch selector lever at "Special" and the lower stitch selector lever at "B". Then set stitch width lever to desired width.

For 403, 403, and 503 machines, set stitch width lever to desired width.

Finally, adjust the stitch length lever to desired density. Special Disc patterns typically look best when sewn at the shortest stitch length possible.

That's it! You're ready to sew. It's really that easy.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

If you haven't already done so, I highly recommend getting a copy of the instruction manual for your machine. Singer offers free downloads of most manuals on their website: htty://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals

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Thread Control? What the heck is Thread Control?

5/9/2013

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When Singer introduced the 500 Slant-o-Matic Rocketeer, it featured a new threading step that Singer called a "thread control."

So what is it? What does it do?

Singer 500A "Thread Control"

"The automatic thread control, located above the tension, ensures a smooth flow of thread from spool to needle. This device eliminates spool weight and drag by pulling off a measured amount of thread before it passes through the tension discs."

- Singer 500 Instruction Manual ©1961

So there you have it straight from the horse's mouth! Thread control is clearly the greatest invention since sliced bread!

So this thread control was a giant leap forward in sewing machine technology, right?

Ummm...not so much, because there's no noticeable difference in stitch quality when comparing the 401A and 500A. Singer apparently came to the same conclusion, because "thread control" disappeared after the early 1960's. It does appear on the German-built 401 and 411 models but then Singer went on to produce the "Touch & Sew" series with a horizontal spool spindle which eliminated spool drag completely.

Alternative threading for Singer 500A

Thread control was so underwhelming that Singer went so far as to distribute an alternate threading guide for the 500 that bypasses the thread control. This threading chart was included in the "Knit Kit" that Singer produced for sewing double-knit fabrics.

I've experimented with both threading methods and I prefer to bypass the thread control because it's faster. And the stitches look just as good without it.

So there you have it...thread control. No, it didn't revolutionize sewing machine technology, but it's still a cool feature that sets the Rocketeer apart.

Visit "Cheat Sheets" page for printable threading guide.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear!

8 Comments

Get the 4-1-1 on the 411 Slant-o-Matic

3/4/2013

24 Comments

Singer 411G

We've all heard the old saying: "If it looks like a duck..."

Well, if a sewing machine looks like a 401, threads like a 500, chain-stitches like a 600 and treadles like a 328...it's a 411!

Which makes the 411 more of a Platypus than a duck.

So let's get the 4-1-1 on the 411...

The 411 features a number of unique characteristics, beginning with its manufacture history. The 411G shown above was a puzzle, because the "G" in the model number indicates Germany, but the serial number points to Canada. After some research it appears that the head was cast (and stamped with serial number) in Canada then the machine was assembled in West Germany.

At a glance the 411 resembles the 401A but on closer examination there are a number of significant differences. Let's compare the two machines:
(411 appears on the lefthand side of each comparison.)

The two machines look similar but the 401A is "squarer" in styling. Stylistically the 411 more closely resembles the 403.

The 411 and 403 share a prominent pointed ridge on top and distinctively shaped light cover. However the 411 has a couple of mechanical features that mimic the 500 Rocketeer.

Note the additional thread tension regulator just above the tension knob. This was a new feature when the 500 was introduced and was also used on the 411.

The 411 and 500 also share a top-mounted bobbin-winder.

Another unique feature is that while it looks like a Slant-o-Matic, the 411 can chainstitch like a Touch & Sew!

The final twist is that the 411 can also be used as a treadle machine, making it one of the very rare zig-zag treadle models. This feature is also found on the vertical needle 328 Style-o-Matic.

Note the channel for the treadle belt in the base just directly below the handwheel.

The 411 is truly a fascinating member of Singer's Slant Needle family. It does not feel as well built as the 401. The casting feels lighter and the paint job and trims appear to be lesser quality. But the unique versatility of this machine make it a strong contender for the title of "Best All-Around Slant Needle!"

Happy Sewing!
Barbara

24 Comments

Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

How to use a Singer Special Disc

Thread Control? What the heck is Thread Control?

Get the 4-1-1 on the 411 Slant-o-Matic

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Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

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Thread Control? What the heck is Thread Control?

Get the 4-1-1 on the 411 Slant-o-Matic

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