OldSewinGear News Reviews & How To's

Class 66 bobbin loading

5/27/2013

Singer 401A bobbin compartment

If you've already read the previous article "Bobbin Case Basics" you are probably thinking...

"That doesn't help with my Slant-o-Matic. How do I insert the bobbin on my Singer 401 or 500?"

Hmmm...you're right. Let's see what we can do about that!

Singer 401 and 500 slant needle sewing machines feature drop-in bobbin loading. The bobbin case is permantly attached to the machine and uses a Class 66 bobbin. Other vintage Singer sewing machine models also use the drop-in Class 66 bobbin. These models include the 66, 99, 201, 185, and 328 to name a few.

Singer Class 66 bobbin case

Loading a class 66 bobbin follows the same principles as loading a Class 15 bobbin, but the key difference is that the Class 66 bobbin case is permanently attached to the machine with the open side facing up.

There is one simple rule to threading both styles of bobbin case:

The thread always slides along the groove under the tension spring in the OPPOSITE direction that it winds on the bobbin.

What does this look like for a Class 66 bobbin case? Check out the step-by-step process in the following photos and video:

Hold bobbin horizontally with thread wrapping from LEFT to RIGHT across the front of the bobbin.
Drop the bobbin into the bobbin case.
Pull thread into the groove at the front of the case.
Slide thread along the groove in a RIGHT to LEFT motion until the thread pops into the notch at the end of the tension spring.
Draw the thread across the bobbin toward the needle.

Still have questions? Let's see it in motion:

There, that wasn't so hard, was it? Loading and threading the bobbin case isn't difficult, but it plays an important role in how well your machine functions. An incorrectly threaded bobbin will cause problems every time.

Visit "Cheat Sheets" page for printable quick reference sheet.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewingear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

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Bobbin Case Basics

5/21/2013

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Singer Class 15 bobbin case

We've all been there. Staring at the bobbin and can't remember which way it goes into the bobbin case...

The rule of thumb is that the thread slides along the groove under the tension spring in the OPPOSITE direction from how it wraps around the bobbin.

Here's the step by step for a Singer Class 15 bobbin case:

1. Hold bobbin case in LEFT hand with open side pointing to the right.
2. Hold bobbin in RIGHT hand with thread feeding TOWARD you over the top of the bobbin .
3. Insert bobbin into bobbin case with a right to left motion.
4. Slide thread into the notch in the open side of the bobbin case.
5. Pull thread up and to the left, sliding thread under the flat tension spring.
6. Keep pulling until thread pops into the notch at the top of the tension spring

Note: Photos show everything being held in the left hand because I was holding the camera with my right hand.

Visit "Cheat Sheets" page to download a printable quick reference.

Here's what it looks like from the side on a Featherweight or 301 bobbin case:

Now that the bobbin is in the case, the next step is to insert the bobbin case into the machine. That's where the little lift lever on the front comes into play. It keeps the bobbin from falling out of the case while you pop the case into the machine:

Voila, you're done!

This basic process works in most standard bobbin cases, but there are always exceptions. When in doubt, track down a copy of the instruction manual for your machine.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

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How to use a Singer Special Disc

5/15/2013

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Singer Special Disc #16

Ever wondered how to use a Singer Special Disc?

It's actually pretty simple!

First, select the stitch pattern you want to use. There are 24 discs available for the Slant-o-Matic and early Touch & Sew machines. They are numbered 0-23, with 0 being standard zigzag and 23 being basting stitch.

Next, open the lid on the top of your machine:

Check to see if there is already a disc in the machine:

500 disc compartment WITH disc

500 disc compartment WITHOUT disc

Singer 401 stitch selector knob.

If there is already a disc in the machine, you will need to remove it before inserting the disc of your choice.

To remove or insert a disc you may need to adjust the knob or lever settings on your machine.

If you have a 401, 411, 500, or 600 model, make sure the stitch selector is NOT on "Special."

Singer 600 stitch selector levers

Singer 500 stitch selector knob

403 stitch width lever

If your machine is a 403, 503, or 603 model, set the stitch width lever to "S" or "STR".

Grasp the raised center portion of the disc firmly and pull straight up. There's no special trick to this. As my dad always says, "Pull hard and it'll come easy."

Now you're ready to insert your chosen disc. Line up the holes in the disc with the two posts in the disc compartment.

Press disc firmly into place. There should be a slight click when it's fully seated.

Let's look at it in motion:

Next, readjust knobs & levers for Special Disc sewing.

For 401, 411, and 500 machines, set large center knob at "B" on the left and "Special" on the right. For 600 machines, set the upper stitch selector lever at "Special" and the lower stitch selector lever at "B". Then set stitch width lever to desired width.

For 403, 403, and 503 machines, set stitch width lever to desired width.

Finally, adjust the stitch length lever to desired density. Special Disc patterns typically look best when sewn at the shortest stitch length possible.

That's it! You're ready to sew. It's really that easy.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

If you haven't already done so, I highly recommend getting a copy of the instruction manual for your machine. Singer offers free downloads of most manuals on their website: htty://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals

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What's so great about a Slant Needle?

5/11/2013

64 Comments

Singer Slant-o-Matic 401A

Just the other day I received a phone call from a guy with a question about one my sewing machines for sale.

So I prepared myself to answer some highly technical question.

Instead, the question was "What's a slant needle?"

Wow...I almost didn't know what to say...

Then I realized I'd gotten so close to the trees I'd forgotten how many folks out there are still trying to find the forest!

Slant Needle, Slant-o-Matic...we hear these words so often that we take for granted everyone knows what they mean.

But how can they, if they've never been told?

So here's the scoop on what "slant needle" means and why they're so desirable.

Singer 15-91 Vertical Needle

For the first 100 years of sewing machine production, sewing machines had a vertical or perpendicular needle. In other words, the needle goes up and down at a right angle to the sewing surface.

Singer 404 Slant Needle

But in the 1950's, Singer changed all of that by introducing the model 301 Slant Needle Sewing Machine. Not only was it a lightweight full size portable, but the needle angled forward...it was slanted.

Wow, how cool is that!

Looks really neat, but how does it affect the price of camels in Turkey?

"FULL-VIEW work area. Inclined Needle Bar places work in your direct line of vision."
-Singer 301 Instruction Manual ©1956

Simply stated, the slant needle makes it easier to see what you sew. How? Let's compare a slant needle machine (left) with a vertical needle machine (right):

Singer 404A Slant Needle Sewing Machine

Singer 327K Vertical Needle Sewing Machine

As you can see, the presser foot on the slant needle machine is closer to the front of the sewing platform. It's not hidden under the machinery. How much difference does this make?

The standard sewing platform measures 7 inches from front to
back. The vertical needle is placed dead center, but the slant needle moves the presser foot an inch closer to the front of the machine. Not only does it make it easier to see, but it also provides easier access the bobbin compartment.

But it isn't just the slant of the needle that makes "slant needle" machines so special. It's actually the direct drive motor and steel
gears that go along with the slant needle.

"World's first automatic with a slant needle and gear drive. Seeing is easier, sewing smoothest ever. No slipping or stalling"
- Singer 401 Instruction Manual © 1959

The 301 was just the beginning of a legendary family of Singer slant needle machines. It was followed by the 401A, 403A, 404A, 401G, 411G, 500A, 503A, 600E, 603E, & 604E, all of which used the same steel gears and direct drive motor.

So how do you know if your machine is a "slant needle?" Take a look at it from the needle end. If the needle is straight up and down you have a vertical needle machine. If it angles forward then your machine is a slant needle.

Such a simple question, with a very simple answer, but it really made me stop and think about what makes these machines so great.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

64 Comments

Thread Control? What the heck is Thread Control?

5/9/2013

8 Comments

When Singer introduced the 500 Slant-o-Matic Rocketeer, it featured a new threading step that Singer called a "thread control."

So what is it? What does it do?

Singer 500A "Thread Control"

"The automatic thread control, located above the tension, ensures a smooth flow of thread from spool to needle. This device eliminates spool weight and drag by pulling off a measured amount of thread before it passes through the tension discs."

- Singer 500 Instruction Manual ©1961

So there you have it straight from the horse's mouth! Thread control is clearly the greatest invention since sliced bread!

So this thread control was a giant leap forward in sewing machine technology, right?

Ummm...not so much, because there's no noticeable difference in stitch quality when comparing the 401A and 500A. Singer apparently came to the same conclusion, because "thread control" disappeared after the early 1960's. It does appear on the German-built 401 and 411 models but then Singer went on to produce the "Touch & Sew" series with a horizontal spool spindle which eliminated spool drag completely.

Alternative threading for Singer 500A

Thread control was so underwhelming that Singer went so far as to distribute an alternate threading guide for the 500 that bypasses the thread control. This threading chart was included in the "Knit Kit" that Singer produced for sewing double-knit fabrics.

I've experimented with both threading methods and I prefer to bypass the thread control because it's faster. And the stitches look just as good without it.

So there you have it...thread control. No, it didn't revolutionize sewing machine technology, but it's still a cool feature that sets the Rocketeer apart.

Visit "Cheat Sheets" page for printable threading guide.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear!

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Class 66 bobbin loading

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What's so great about a Slant Needle?

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