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What's so great about a Slant Needle?

5/11/2013

64 Comments

 
PictureSinger Slant-o-Matic 401A
Just the other day I received a phone call from a guy with a question about one my sewing machines for sale. 

So I prepared myself to answer some highly technical question. 


Instead, the question was "What's a slant needle?"

Wow...I almost didn't know what to say...

Then I realized I'd gotten so close to the trees I'd forgotten how many folks out there are still trying to find the forest!

Slant Needle, Slant-o-Matic...we hear these words so often that we take for granted everyone knows what they mean. 

But how can they, if they've never been told? 

So here's the scoop on what "slant needle" means and why they're so desirable. 

PictureSinger 15-91 Vertical Needle
For the first 100 years of sewing machine production, sewing machines had a vertical or perpendicular needle.  In other words, the needle goes up and down at a right angle to the sewing surface.

PictureSinger 404 Slant Needle
But in the 1950's, Singer changed all of that by introducing the model 301 Slant Needle Sewing Machine.  Not only was it a lightweight full size portable, but the needle angled forward...it was slanted.

Wow, how cool is that! 

Looks really neat, but how does it affect the price of camels in Turkey? 


"FULL-VIEW work area. Inclined Needle Bar places work in your direct line of vision."
-Singer 301 Instruction Manual ©1956

Simply stated, the slant needle makes it easier to see what you sew.  How?  Let's compare a slant needle machine (left) with a vertical needle machine (right):
Picture
Singer 404A Slant Needle Sewing Machine
Picture
Singer 327K Vertical Needle Sewing Machine
As you can see, the presser foot on the slant needle machine is closer to the front of the sewing platform.  It's not hidden under the machinery.  How much difference does this make?
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
The standard sewing platform measures 7 inches from front to
back.  The vertical needle is placed dead center, but the slant needle moves the presser foot an inch closer to the front of the machine.  Not only does it make it easier to see, but it also provides easier access the bobbin compartment.

But it isn't just the slant of the needle that makes "slant needle" machines so special.  It's actually the direct drive motor and steel
gears that go along with the slant needle.

"World's first automatic with a slant needle and gear drive.  Seeing is easier, sewing smoothest ever.  No slipping or stalling"
- Singer 401 Instruction Manual © 1959

The 301 was just the beginning of a legendary family of Singer slant needle machines.  It was followed by the 401A, 403A, 404A, 401G, 411G, 500A, 503A, 600E, 603E, & 604E, all of which used the same steel gears and direct drive motor. 

So how do you know if your machine is a "slant needle?"  Take a look at it from the needle end.   If the needle is straight up and down you have a vertical needle machine.  If it angles forward then your machine is a slant needle. 

Such a simple question, with a very simple answer, but it really made me stop and think about what makes these machines so great.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara

OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear. 
64 Comments
Roberta
2/25/2014 10:53:26 am

Barbara, this article is absolutely wonderful! Salient data, concisely and elegantly written, with meticulous and meaningful illustrative photos. Thank you very, very much for investing your time in these instructions.

Reply
OldSewinGear
2/27/2014 11:26:55 am

Thank you for your kind words! It means a lot to hear from readers who enjoy reading my articles as much as I enjoy writing them!
Barbara

Reply
Joni spires
6/20/2020 12:51:41 pm

Hi Barbara would you know if they still make a machine with a slant pressure foot/needle? Thxs Joni

Reply
Marianne
2/26/2014 12:22:58 pm

I agree with Roberta. Your instructions are so easy to follow, and the information on all the basics makes me feel like I can learn to sew without an issue. I love your site, I've read most of your articles, and based on your recommendations, have just purchased a 600e off Craigslist. Thanks for all the tips and please keep posting!

Reply
OldSewinGear
2/27/2014 11:32:27 am

Thank you too, Marianne! I've had some computer issues lately so haven't been able to post as frequently as I'd like, but I'll be posting new articles soon. I hope you enjoy your 600E. My personal machine is a 603E and it's a joy to sew on. Best wishes on your adventures in learning to sew!
Barbara

Reply
eileen link
5/11/2014 02:10:50 am

Thank You, another great article !

Reply
Annette Phillips
7/21/2014 03:52:59 am

Hi Barbara,

I wondered if you could help me regarding sewings needles for the Singer 404 slant needle machine. I have found that my normal heavy duty ones will not fit into hole so I bought some singer needles and they seem to fit but are a bit flimsy. I need heavy duty needles as I do use a lot of heavy fabrics/

Hope you can help.

Thanks you

Annette

ps .please note I'm in the UK

Reply
Kathie
2/11/2018 07:49:46 am

There are several companies , Schmidt, Organ, etc., that manufacture large shank needles.

I just went to one - and they list many offers. Hopefully you will find what you need there. I have no commercial interest in these companies.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=organ+universal+sewing+needles+size+18&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aorgan+universal+sewing+needles+size+18

Reply
Maureen
1/14/2021 11:23:59 pm

Thank you very much for the info regarding needles for the Slanf o Matic machine. I have inherited my mother’s 401 and had problems fitting a new needle. I sew quite heavy fabrics and the needles have broken and new singer needles don’t seem to fit. It is a fabulous machine. I have been sewing for years and this has been the best of many machines I have used. Your website is so very useful to me , many thanks . Maureen

Steve
4/2/2015 03:57:20 pm

Thanks for the Slant explanation. I have my mother's machine, for which I just found her budget book purchase entry in 1955. I have all kinds of extras that go with it but don't look like they were used much. I mostly use it for minor repairs.

Reply
OldSewinGear
4/10/2015 02:34:42 pm

Thank you for sharing! Family machines are the best!
Barbara

Reply
Cheryl
9/1/2015 01:50:06 pm

Hello Barbara......I thoroughly enjoyed reading this article....It explained a lot about my machine that is Model #290C.

And I must admit...this machine is not discussed on YouTube at all....It's as if this machine is an outcast;-(

Reply
Kathie
2/11/2018 07:43:56 am

Cheryl, sadly so is my XL 6000 which I bought in 2005 for over $3000. When I contacted the company (now in foreign hands) I was told they no longer support that model. I wish I had known that when I bought it! It is a dual sewing/embroidery machine that takes a very specific software which was on my 2005 laptop and since my move, the disc is also missing (along with the dongle for my Origins software. Anyone have one laying around?)

Reply
Jean Rees
2/19/2016 01:28:06 pm

A very interesting article. I have never heard of a slant needle.. My friend is now reading your blog and enlightening me. Thank you.

Reply
Cynthia Campbell
2/20/2016 05:22:23 am

So glad I found you Barbara. I definitely will be following you after reading the slant machine article. I love my vintage machines - they are the best!

Reply
Lois Mclaughlin
2/20/2016 08:23:30 am

I have a 301 Slant Needle (Delux it was called back in 1959 NEW) I haven't heard one called a Delux in all my readings of this vintage. I love mine...Not to long ago (last Yr) I bought a Singer computorized 2010 haven't used it a whole lot yet but some & I am making my Gt Grandson a twin quilt he is ready for a big boy bed with new quilt..:) My 301 is still going strong, but don't want to brag on it to much cause I don't want to ginks myself....Thanks for sharing this artical it was really a good one. My bobbin is in the left side under the lift plate, a little different from yours... Thanks....

Reply
Arleen
2/20/2016 09:23:36 am

Wow, I don't think that in my 45 years of sewing, I've ever come across a slant-needle machine! But then I owned everything but Singers, lol! Nice article and very informative as well!

Reply
Joan Wertley
2/20/2016 04:17:12 pm

Do regular needles work in a slant machine?

Reply
Rebecca keller
2/24/2016 08:26:39 am

I also need to know if a regular needle works?

Reply
OldSewinGear
2/24/2016 10:22:08 am

Joan, thanks for asking!
All slant needle machines use a standard 15×1 needle up to size 18. I prefer Schmetz brand but the larger sizes (16, 18) don't always fit in the needle clamp of older Singer machines. Singer brand (up to size 18) needles always fit.

Reply
Christine G
3/28/2016 09:04:28 am

Hi Barbara,
I was having difficulty figuring out what type of walking foot would fit my 20+ year old Singer, and what was a slant needle design? My needle always looked straight to me... After viewing your photos, I jumped up and turned my machine sideways, and- amazing!- I have a slant needle design!! Thanks for posting this, as I've only worked with one sewing machine, so how would I have known this? Have a great day!

Reply
Deborah Flack
6/8/2016 06:47:14 am

Great info! Why did they stop making them? Any thoughts?

Reply
Kathie Travis
7/8/2016 09:01:04 am

Is there a good source for slant-needle accessories?

I have the 401A that my dad bought for my mom in about 1958 for more than $600. That was a small fortune back then. It has never needed anything in the way of repair or replacement (knock, knock!) I took a seminar on sewing machine repair and learned so much. I also bought another 401 that one of my fellow students had brought as a project so it is nice and clean and tuned up.
I will never give up these machines. I recently saw one on the web for over $400 with only a few accessories.
Now if you want to talk about "too many machines" I can never pass up a good bargain or an adoption opportunity. I think my last count was 14 in addition to 2 embroidery machines.
So much more to say but I don't want to bore everyone.

Reply
OldSewinGear
8/7/2016 10:11:20 am

Kathie,
Because slant-needle accessories are usually interchangeable between models, accessories are readily available. If you're looking for general accessories, the best source is usually local thrift stores. If you're looking for something specific you can easily find it on eBay. Thanks for sharing your collection, we love hearing from like-minded sewing machine addicts! Barbara

Reply
Martha
4/12/2020 05:46:16 pm

I have a Singer slant 401 in a beautiful cabinet with all accessories that I'd like to sell. It hasn't been used in many many years and I'm sure needs serviced.

Reply
Mary Katherine Riley
4/26/2020 04:42:40 pm

Hello,
Email me about your Sewing machine and where you are located.
Mary

Martha
1/12/2021 08:31:06 pm

I have a singer slant with all accessories for sale if anyone is interested. I can double check but its a 401A

Reply
Lou link
10/1/2016 08:31:34 am

Can you tell me where I can locate the serial/model number of the Slant needle 404. I have looked and can't seem to find it. I am trying to find out when my mothers machine was manufactured. Thanks for any info!

Reply
OldSewinGear
10/1/2016 08:45:54 am

Lou, the serial number is stamped into the underside of the sewing platform at the needle end. Hope this helps!
Barbara

Reply
Maggie West
11/12/2016 10:12:14 am

My mother was a fearless sewist with her early 50s slant Singer! She made my junior prom dress which was crepe and added cotten lace to the bodice to change the look for my senior prom, made denim slipcovers for a club chair in her living room, and pulled out the back seat in the car and made a pattern and upholstered it in blue naughahide complete with corded edge! When Mom came to live with me a few years ago, the Singer came wih her. Mom died last year at 93--one of a kind, as is her Singer Slant machine. They don't make 'em like that any more. Thanks for the article and the inspiration to clean and oil it and use the machine again that I learned to sew on :)

Reply
marilyn hall
1/8/2017 04:03:50 pm

I just purchased a 401 A Slant needle and remember learning to sew with my grandmother when I was 5 on an old treadle machine (she treadles and I held the material and sewed rag-rug strips and learned to stitch very straight. In Jr. High in the 50's I took Home Economics and learned on the new improved Slant-needle Singers. So I'm retired and bought a 401 A. It's mechanically sound, but I obviously am not threading it properly or have the tension wrong. The thread breaks every time . Can you show me how to thread it? Also looking for an instruction manual and anything else to go with it. mkh

Reply
Carolyn
6/27/2017 12:30:15 pm

Try this source for the 401A manual:
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/search.html?keywords=Singer+401A+manual

Reply
John A Ratkiewicz
9/12/2017 10:51:03 pm

Marilyn, my machine was acting the same due to too much tension on the presser foot.

Reply
Kathie Travis
9/13/2017 10:27:10 am

If you open the left side of the machine, inside the swing-out door is a threading diagram.

Kathie Travis
4/27/2018 03:27:02 pm

If you push sideways on the left side of the cover you should open it. Inside there is a threading diagram. I've used mine so much I can do it with my eyes closed until I get to the threading of the needle.
Hopefully you will find this helpful.

Reply
Kerry Milligan
11/15/2019 09:00:25 am

Thank you Kathie
I just acquired a 401A. Knew nothing about it. You made my day! Open saysme beautiful diagram inside the left panel of the machine. Looks like I now need some gears to fill the hole in top when lid is flipped up. And a Manuel . Thanks again.

Christine Friedrichs
2/10/2017 02:38:16 pm

Thanks for helping those of us who are new to the hunt for a sewing machine. What are your thoughts on a 404A in terms of use for basic clothing and household repairs? Do they hold up well? Easy to repair the machine? Etc

Reply
Kathie
2/11/2018 07:37:48 am

I have several 400 series and have never had a problem with any except 1. Someone tried to fix something in it and jammed (and damaged) the stitch selection stack. I'll fiddle with it one of these days.
Another "adopted" machine has a body problem. It is a free arm which was dropped and the ast metal back leg was broken and I'm trying to fudge a way to fix it.
I have several other 300 series and even 1 200 series (but I don't remember which model) all of which are in great condition. Many of them are in storage since I moved but I am slowly releasing them from their long winter (and summer and winter and summer...) slumber.
In my opinion, these machines were the best mechanical as opposed to computerized machines ever made by Singer (an a few other unnamed companies)
BTW I do own Baby Lock, Bernina, Brother, Pfaff and other brands. I just like the Singers, probably because I learned on a Singer treadle and the first electric I ever knew was my trustee 401 which my mom gave to me when I married and moved away from home.

Reply
Lori
3/3/2018 08:37:57 pm

An experienced welder can fix the broken leg on your machine.
You can find parts for most any Singer on ebay. Sometimes you have to search a bit but you should find the selectors.
I have quite a few slants. Even touch and sew models. I don't really care to sew with them but have them in the collection. I sew with all my machines. They were made to be used, not sit idle.
Biggest mistakes people make is not cleaning out the lint, I do at least once every project; not oiling frequently enough where the manual shows to oil, and using oil, not lubricant (grease) on the gears. Oil alone on the gears isn't enough and you start to slowly wear them down.
If you don't have the manual, Singer has free downloads on their website.

KathyJB
1/10/2018 06:36:04 pm

I wish you could have been my math teacher. I think I would have had an easier time learning. :D Thank you for an easy to understand article.

Reply
OldSewinGear
1/10/2018 07:23:32 pm

Thanks, Kathy. I love the old machines and enjoy writing about them!

Reply
Alaina Zulli link
2/6/2018 06:09:02 pm

This is great, thanks! we have a Singer 253-12 Chainstitch machine in our sewing studio, and like you say it is beautiful to sew with, very smooth.

Reply
Susan
4/23/2018 01:44:55 pm

I got my sewing machine in the 80's. 1986 or 1987, it is a Singer 4623 it came inside a nice wooden table with storage and a bench seat with a drawer under the seat for sewing notions, I have used it for many years and have never had a problem with it. I've never had it cleaned or in the shop for repair, but I am getting ready to make some new pillow covers. Should I oil it? I never have. I thought I heard it make a knocking sound but turns out I threaded the needle wrong, plus it's been sitting for a year. So is there something special I should do other than brushing it with the tiny brush?

Thank you, Susan

Reply
Kathie Travis
4/24/2018 10:27:49 am

Oh my!
All of my machines get a once over about every 250 hours of sewing or once a year, whichever comes first.
This means that my 401 gets 3 or 4 cleanings per year.
If you have a manual, refer to it for places to clean. One is available at: http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/421471870c94897904cfa03d5faab3a8a95e1f32.pdf
Tip the machine back as though you were going to lower it into the closed position.
If it has a bottom cover it may be easier done if you remove it from the cabinet. To do this you locate the hinges on the back edge of the machine, support the machine and loosen the 2 set screws. (Remember, righty tighty - lefty loosey. To loosen the screws, you turn the screwdriver counter-clockwise.)
Lift the machine and set it down on a towel-padded surface. Kitchen counters or picnic tables are a perfect height for most people.
Remove the bottom cover if it has one.
With a can of compressed air, blow away any visible dust. Use a "small brush" to remove any clumps of fuzz.
Follow the specified instructions directions on page 41 of the manual for cleaning the bobbin area.
Clean the bobbin area out about every 100 hours of sewing and change the needle at about the same time unless it breaks before. The needle manufacturers recommend changing after 8 hours of sewing but I would be changing it every day if I did that.
Good luck and beproud of owning one of Singer's better machines.

Reply
Kathie Travis
4/24/2018 10:30:21 am

Oh, yeah.
DO NOT OIL IT!!
It has "Permanently oiled bushings"

Reply
Susan
4/24/2018 10:47:03 am

Thanks Kathie, I have some new needles on order I'm also wanting to get a welter/piping. I'm looking at....Dream Stitch Double Piping Sewing Machine Presser Foot 7mm Type-Fits All Low Shank Snap-On Singer. What would you suggest?

Reply
Kathie
4/24/2018 11:55:10 am

You do not have a low-shank machine.
If you look from the needle end of the machine, you will notice that the presser foot and needle slant from top left to bottom right.
That's why it's called a slant needle.
Although there are some interchangeable feet as after-market, I feel more comfortable using original parts. It may mean having to change the foot by unscrewing the thumbscrew on the left side of the presser/lifter bar and removing the one and installing the other.
Search eBay or AllSew or Google to find appropriate pieces. Be sure to search for "Singer slant" parts. Your machine originally came with a snap-on shank. There are some interchangeable feet but not the variety you are looking for. The blade on your snap-on shank is very thin whereas the newer models and other brands use a much thick (almost 1/4") "ankle.
None should be exorbitantly priced. $10 - $15 should be the max for all but the most complicated pieces.
Here is one example with multiple sources.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=utf-8&fr=tightropetb&p=singer+slant+shank+presser+feet&type=Y17_F7_136713_042418

Also, check thrift stores and flea markets. I've gotten full sets in boxes for less than $10.
All slant needle feet will fit all machines but not all accessories will be usable. If you get a kit for a 401A, there are pattern discs that are obsolete with your machine. If there are enough other parts that you can use, go for it! In addition, you may need a buttonhole maker or foot. (Check the manual to check for what the buttonhole foot would look like.)
BTW you do not need to use special needles on this machine. Any "Universal" needle can be used. This has been true since the 1960s. It does not matter whether you have a Singer, Bernina, New Millard, Kenmore or any other.
The flat surface goes to the back when you insert it into the slot.
The difference is in the diameter and point. Needles range from 0.36 mm/3 to 4.00 mm/32.5 but the most common ones range between 65/9 to 100/16. They can be purchased anywhere from big box stores to your local sewing center. The only difference will be in the price they charge. (I prefer to support my local private shops. Otherwise, they will go out of business and you will be forced to patronize the box stores.)
Hope this helps. It's a lot of info at one time but print it out and digest it slowly.
Have a seamingly great time.

Susan
4/25/2018 10:52:30 am

Oh meant to tell you, I have all of the original parts it came with including the button foot, I also have the original manual.

Susan :-)

Reply
Kathie
4/27/2018 03:36:34 pm

That is truly a treasure trove.
Follow the cleaning directions in the manual and thoroughly investigate the accessories in the box.
Good luck and have fun.

Kathie
4/28/2018 08:22:51 am

Most people use the zipper foot to make and apply cording. The process should be described in the manual.

Susan
4/25/2018 10:49:24 am

Kathie,

I cleaned out the needle housing top part by removing the cover around it. Also cleaned out the bobbin area. Wow, lots of old dust accumulation in both areas. Just did my first test run. Works beautifully like brand new, it's not as fast as the newer ones I'm sure, but this machine has been very reliable. Thanks also for teaching me about my own machine.. slant needles or shank? right?

My machine is ready to work. Thank you, Susan

Reply
Kathie
4/27/2018 03:39:14 pm

YAY!!
Welcome to the (slant needle lovers) neighborhood.
You will enjoy where this machine can take you.
Have fun

Reply
Susan
4/27/2018 04:52:55 pm

:-) I will . Thanks

Susan
4/27/2018 05:09:46 pm

Oh P/S, I also have my ruffler. Remember the curtain fad in the south. Dorothy Originals? I used to make that style for people. I haven't had a request for anything ruffly in a long time.

Reply
Colleen
4/30/2018 12:27:38 pm

Are the "feet" for a 301 interchangeable with series 400-500-600?'s

Reply
Dawn Tenney
6/24/2018 09:27:26 pm

I have mainly vintage Singer Sewing Machines. I love them. I had a Singer 2010 Memory Touch Tronic which I believe was a slant machine if memory serves me correctly. When it died I cried and eventually replaced it with a new fancy sewing machine two years ago. My real question is are the 2010 Singers worth trying to keep repaired? I know that once the circuit board fries you pretty much are dead in the water. But I really miss my 2010 and have thought of replacing it. The machine I own now is daunting to learn. There is so much to it it can just be too much sometimes although I have been happy with it mostly. Any one have any ideas on this?

Reply
rana willit
5/13/2019 04:55:24 pm

I have my mothers slant 401 singer machine. It was bought around 1960. What was the going price for the machine at that time? Just curious. (It still sews like a dream, but doesn't like filmy fabrics any more)

Reply
Dianne Peabody
8/8/2020 03:30:05 pm

Hi Barbara - I picked up a Singer 404 at an estate sale for $14. I got her home and gave her a cleaning and oiling. She is just a beautiful machine to sew on!

Reply
Karen
10/23/2020 02:22:46 pm

Hi All,

I have a 603e with steel gears that I received in 1968 in 8th grade. I loved the machine and cleaned and maintained it every year.

Fast forward 25 years and I just hauled it out of the basement. It fired right up. I have given it a good clean, but it now needs a lube. I have been googling and have come to realize that the old Singer Lube is no longer available, and there are plenty of opinions on substitutions, include petroleum jelly.

Thoughts?

Reply
John J Conway
3/18/2021 03:34:50 am

Check out featherweight shops videos on lubrication . They have reproduced the original lube under their brand name. They also sell it through Amazon for us impatient folks like yours truly.

Reply
Jeannie Walsh
2/3/2022 01:32:16 pm

I have a 401A that I got for graduation in 1961. It has been one of the best machines ever ! I sewed for many years for my daughter. She graduated in 1990. I used it for mending mostly after that. It has been sitting for a long time . I decided to try to start sewing again and was really excited, but it was so frustrating when my machine froze and
wouldn’t do anything!! What could be the first thing I need to do? I have oiled it but without any response from the machine!!
Please give me any information to make it work again. I have tried several different things & don’t know what else to
try. Thanks for your help. Jeannie

Reply
Jeff Carbine link
4/6/2022 10:28:50 am

My favorite part of this article is sewing machines used vertical or perpendicular needles for the first 100 years of existence. Someone recently told me about this and it is different from what I understand. Thanks for helping me understand the sewing machine.

Reply
Julia link
10/19/2022 06:56:49 am

Can you tell me where I can locate the serial/model number of the Slant needle 404. I have looked and can't seem to find it. I am trying to find out when my mothers machine was manufactured. Thanks for any info!

Reply
Greater Southern Home Recreation link
11/28/2022 03:03:05 am

Nice article. It's well written and detailed. Hope to read more of your articles in the future.

Reply



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