OldSewinGear News Reviews & How To's

Do I need Special Discs for my 401 or 500?

12/7/2014

This is a very good question, and one I hear often from 401, 500, and 600 owners.

This simple answer?

It depends on how creative you want or need to be.

As shown on the flip-top chart, the 401 has an impressive array of built-in stitch patterns with almost infinite range of length and width variations.

Singer 401 built-in stitch chart

Singer 401A built-in cam-stack.

If you look at the 401's built-in cam stack each cam represents a different stitch pattern. And when you factor in that the 401 can "combine" two cams to create additional stitch patterns, it's pretty awesome what the 401 can do without Special Discs.

But if you want to get the maximum creative use out of your 401, you will definitely want a set of Special Discs.

Why?

Special Disc patterns from 500A manual.

The original accessories kit for the 401 included 5 Special Discs (numbered 1-5) for stitches that are not built-in. These 5 discs can be combined with the built in Primary stitches to produce additional patterns, such as scalloped zigzag.

However, Singer produced a total of 24 Special Discs for the Slant-o-Matic and 600-series Touch & Sew family, which means there are 19 additional discs available.

Some of these additional Special Discs are patterns which are not built-in, while others are duplications of stitches built into the 401. However, even duplicates can add to the range of stitches the 401 can produce.

"If it's already built-in, why would I want the Special Disc too?

The answer lies in the distinction between "Primary" patterns and "Combination" patterns.

"Primary" patterns use a single cam in the cam-stack to produce the stitch. This means that the stitch pattern is unchanged regardless of width and length settings. In other words, a scalloped stitch simply gets wider or narrower but still looks the same. In the sample shown here, the width of Special Disc #12 has been set progressively wider.

Special Disc #12 at widths 2, 3, 4, 5 (Primary)

On the other hand, "Combination" patterns use two cams in the stack to produce the stitch pattern. Which means that a change in stitch width affects the movement of both cams, which can greatly affect the overall appearance of the stitch. Note in the sample shown here how the appearance of stitch setting DP changes when the width is set progressively wider. The zigzag blocks get narrower as the offset gets wider.

Built in stitch DP at widths 2, 3, 4 (Combination)

While this does add some variety to the built-in stitches, it also means you are somewhat limited when using built-in stitch patterns if you want the pattern wider or narrower.   The 401 and 500 have seven built-in "Primary patterns. They're shown on the top row of the chart (see photo above) inside the flip-up lid.

Which is where Special Discs come in. Special Discs are considered "Primary" patterns, so they look the same regardless of width. Clearly an advantage in some situations.

Another advantage of using a Special Disc is that two-needle stitching only works with "Primary" patterns, because the left-hand stitch selector has to be set on "A." So if you like the look of a "combination" stitch but want that stitch in double-needle, you'll need to use a Special Disc.

Built-in Primary patterns can also be combined with certain Special Discs to produce additional stitch patterns.

The final advantage of Special Discs is that they are just plain easy to use. Pick a pattern, pop it in, and away you go.  No messing with dials or charts.

So, DO you need a complete set of Special Discs for your 401, 500, or 600 sewing machine?

Bottom line, it's up to you.  The choice is yours.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most our of your old sewing gear.

For additional information about Special Discs see the articles:
How to Use a Singer Special Disc
Disc-o-mania! Special Discs & Fashion Discs

16 Comments

Auto Reel vs Touch & Sew

7/22/2013

15 Comments

Singer 600 Auto Reel Sewing Machine

Pop Quiz, everyone!

What do you think when someone says "Singer Touch & Sew"?

Great machine? Plastic garbage?

What do you think when someone says "Singer Auto Reel"?

Great machine? Plastic garbage? Never heard of it?

Sorry, trick question. "Auto Reel" is what Singer called their new 600 Slant-o-Matic before someone thought up the name "Touch & Sew."

In fact the only difference between the earliest 600 Touch & Sew and the 600 Auto Reel is a new nameplate and a couple of rivets.

Time for a side-by-side comparison!

Singer 600 Auto Reel
Serial Number AN663953

Singer 600 Auto Reel

Auto Reel nameplate

Singer 600 Touch & Sew
Serial Number AN689066

Singer 600 Touch & Sew

Touch & Sew nameplate riveted over top of Auto Reel name.

Whatever name you call it, the Singer 600 is a vintage Singer slant needle worthy of attention. It's not a very attractive machine with its square styling and gray plastic face-plate. But it's graced with steel gears just like the classic Slant-o-Matics. The horizontal spool pin feeds smoothly and the wind-in-place bobbin is an improvement over the top-mounted Rocketeer bobbin winder.

It doesn't have as many built-in stitch settings as the 401 or 500, but it has the stitch patterns that matter and it sews a fine quality stitch.

Singer refined the bobbin winding mechanism when they introduced the 600E. The bobbin-winder button is located on the front right corner of the 600, but it's tucked inside the bobbin compartment on the later 600E.

So next time you see or hear "Singer Auto Reel" you'll know it's worth taking a look!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

15 Comments

Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

6/15/2013

4 Comments

Single-thread chain stitch basting.

If you've every played with a toy sewing machine, you know what chain stitch looks like.

So maybe you think it's kid stuff.

But did you know that Singer made full-size "grown-up" machines that also sew chain stitch.

What exactly is chain stitch? Is it useful? Which Singer models have a chain stitch feature?

Good questions! Let's answer them.

First let's briefly review how a sewing machine works.

A sewing machine typically has two threads. The top thread passes through the needle and the bottom thread is wound on a bobbin. When the needle point pierces through the fabric it draws the top thread down to where a hook grabs the thread and wraps it around the bobbin thread before releasing the top thread.  When the needle raises back up through the fabric the two threads are "locked" together to form a complete stitch.

Chain stitch is different because it uses a single thread.  When the needle pierces through the fabric, the machine loops the top thread around itself, forming a series of interlocking loops.  From the top it looks like a normal straight stitch, but from the bottom it looks like a chain.

The beauty of chain stitch can also be its fatal flaw, because chain stitched seams can be removed with a single tug on the end thread.

Which is great if you WANT to sew a temporary seam, but a real frustration if need a permanent seam. You can lose an hour's work in seconds if you pull on the wrong thread.

Which is why chain stitch is typically reserved for toys or handheld "quick repair" sewing tools. But there are situations when a temporary stitch is a desirable tool for dressmaking or quilting.

Which is why Singer included chain stitch as a feature on some Slant-o-Matic and Touch & Sew Models.

Which ones? Let's take a look:

411G, 600E, and 603E are notable examples of chain-stitch capability along with steel gears and a slant needle. Most Touch & Sew models have chain stitch capability, but beware of plastic gears!

So if you're looking for a heavy duty machine or quilting machine with the added bonus of chain-stitch basting keep an eye out for one of these remarkable machines!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

4 Comments

How to use a Singer Special Disc

5/15/2013

24 Comments

Singer Special Disc #16

Ever wondered how to use a Singer Special Disc?

It's actually pretty simple!

First, select the stitch pattern you want to use. There are 24 discs available for the Slant-o-Matic and early Touch & Sew machines. They are numbered 0-23, with 0 being standard zigzag and 23 being basting stitch.

Next, open the lid on the top of your machine:

Check to see if there is already a disc in the machine:

500 disc compartment WITH disc

500 disc compartment WITHOUT disc

Singer 401 stitch selector knob.

If there is already a disc in the machine, you will need to remove it before inserting the disc of your choice.

To remove or insert a disc you may need to adjust the knob or lever settings on your machine.

If you have a 401, 411, 500, or 600 model, make sure the stitch selector is NOT on "Special."

Singer 600 stitch selector levers

Singer 500 stitch selector knob

403 stitch width lever

If your machine is a 403, 503, or 603 model, set the stitch width lever to "S" or "STR".

Grasp the raised center portion of the disc firmly and pull straight up. There's no special trick to this. As my dad always says, "Pull hard and it'll come easy."

Now you're ready to insert your chosen disc. Line up the holes in the disc with the two posts in the disc compartment.

Press disc firmly into place. There should be a slight click when it's fully seated.

Let's look at it in motion:

Next, readjust knobs & levers for Special Disc sewing.

For 401, 411, and 500 machines, set large center knob at "B" on the left and "Special" on the right. For 600 machines, set the upper stitch selector lever at "Special" and the lower stitch selector lever at "B". Then set stitch width lever to desired width.

For 403, 403, and 503 machines, set stitch width lever to desired width.

Finally, adjust the stitch length lever to desired density. Special Disc patterns typically look best when sewn at the shortest stitch length possible.

That's it! You're ready to sew. It's really that easy.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

If you haven't already done so, I highly recommend getting a copy of the instruction manual for your machine. Singer offers free downloads of most manuals on their website: htty://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals

24 Comments

Do I need Special Discs for my 401 or 500?

Auto Reel vs Touch & Sew

Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

How to use a Singer Special Disc

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