OldSewinGear News Reviews & How To's

Feed-Dog Days of Summer

8/12/2013

Morse 200 De Luxe drop feed knob

Time to answer another "How do I..." question!

Today's contestant is the ever-popular "How do I drop the feed dogs for free motion embroidery or darning?"

That is an excellent question.
Some machines make it very easy with a clearly labeled knob or lever. Other models like to play hide and seek with the drop feed feature.

First of all, it's a good idea to find out if your machine HAS a drop-feed feature. Basic models such as the 221 Featherweight, 99K, and 185K don't have a drop feed, so you can save yourself the hassle of looking.

But many of the full-size Singer models DO have drop feed; it's just a matter of finding it.

"How do I drop the feed dogs?

Singer 15-91 Drop Feed

Singer's 15-91 is one of the "hide and seek" models. If you have the manual, it tells you where to find it, but it's not obvious when you're looking at the machine.

You have to tilt the machine backwards to access a knob located beneath the machine. It isn't marked, but it's located at the front left underneath the machine, as indicated in the above photo.

(Singer could have learned a thing or two from the Japanese on this one. The Toyota-built Morse 200 pictured at the beginning of the article has a drop feed feature that is a thing of beauty and easy to find! The Japanese didn't just clone the Singer 15, they improved on it!)

Singer 201-2 drop feed knob

Depending on the year of production, the screw may be chrome-plated or WW II-era "Black side."

You'll find the drop feed knob in this same location on Singer's 15-125 and 201-2 models.

Singer 301 drop feed knob

Singer 301 Slant Needle has a different drop-feed location. It's still underneath, but you don't have to tip the machine up. Instead, you flip up the end table and the drop feed knob is located just to the rear of the bobbin case. It isn't labeled, but it is a little easier to find.

Singer 401A throat plate position lever

Singer did a better job of labeling on the 401 and 500 slant needle machines, but still missed the mark in user friendliness. The "Throat Plate Position" lever is located at the front of the sewing platform right next to the spindle for bobbin winding.

It's easy to find, but nothing to get excited about, because it isn't really a drop feed feature.

Singer 401A needle plate in darning position

Rather than drop the feed, the lever raises the needle plate above the level of the feed dogs so that fabric slides freely. It works ok, but it's a little funky because it creates a harsh edge to hook things on.

Singer 411G darning collar

Singer attempted to mitigate the weak design by including a nifty rubber collar on the 411G, but never included it on the Anderson-built machines. The rubber collar helps a bit, but a true drop feed feature would have been nicer!

Singer 306 darning needle plate

Singer took a completely different approach on other machines, such as the 306.

Rather than messing around with levers or knobs, they simply included another needle plate with a raised portion that rode above the feed dogs.

So if your Singer doesn't have a drop feed adjustment, check to see if there's a darning needle plate available.

Still wondering how to drop the feed on your machine? If you have the instruction manual for your machine, look under "Darning" to see if there are instructions for dropping the feed dogs or elevating the sewing surface.

Have fun with your game of hide and seek. But remember, these old machines play to win!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

3 Comments

Under Pressure - Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

7/17/2013

1 Comment

Pressure adjustment - Singer 401A

Ever wondered what this thing does?

I never really gave it any thought until quite recently.

A few weeks ago I was testing out a Singer 401A prior to listing it for sale and the darn thing WOULD NOT sew leather. The thread would fuzz up every few stitches and then it would break.

I tried everything I could think of. I changed needles, I changed thread, I changed leather. I cursed and swore and kicked the trash can. (Not really, but it makes for a better story!)

Finally I took a deep breath and watched what was happening when the needle was going up and down through the leather. I noticed that the presser foot was "hopping" up and down with each stitch, which created a sawing effect on the thread.

That's when I discovered the importance of this little knob. It's the pressure adjustment for the presser foot. On the machine in question the pressure was too light and the presser foot wasn't holding the leather firmly enough to allow the needle to travel cleanly through.

So I gave the knob a little turn to the right and it was better. A little fine tuning and it was perfect.

500A pressure adjustment

Of course the pressure will need to be backed off to sew lighter fabrics but that's the beauty of adjustable pressure!

On most vintage Singer machines (and Class 15 clones) the pressure adjustment can be found at the top of the machine directly above the presser foot lever.

Turning the knob clockwise increases pressure, turning it counter-clockwise reduces pressure. You should be able to feel increased or decreased resistance when you lift the presser foot lever.

The pressure adjustment looks a little different on the 500A, 503A and 600-series Touch and Sew models. It's located inside the end cover and looks like a wheel with numbered settings. The higher the number, the greater the pressure.

So now you know...that little knob is the key to even greater creative expression and control!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

1 Comment

Kicked to the Curb: Packaging for Shipping

7/12/2013

3 Comments

If you are buying (or selling) a vintage sewing machine online, it really does matter how the machine is packaged for shipping. A flimsy cardboard box and wadded up newspaper simply does not cut it.

Why?

For starters, vintage sewing machines are often very heavy. Shipping weight for a well-packaged Singer 301A runs about 23 pounds, while the Singer 401A is closer to 30 pounds, and a Singer 15-91 can weigh upwards of 38 pounds. That's a lot of heavy metal that needs protection in transit.

After all, packages aren't handled by people these days. They are bar-coded and fed through automated routing facilities with conveyor belts and bins. Transitions between one conveyor and another can mean a sudden drop of several feet. It doesn't matter whether you've marked the box "Fragile" or "Handle with Care" or "This Side Up." The machines can't read and besides that, they just don't care.

Back when we started selling machines we were advised to package each machine to withstand a kick down a flight of stairs. So that's what we do. And we haven't had a shipping loss yet.

So how should a machine be packaged? Here are some photos of a Singer 15-91 ready to ship:

We start with appliance grade cardboard. As shown in the photos, this cardboard is double the thickness of ordinary cardboard, which makes it more rigid and durable. Next we custom cut and fabricate each box to fit the machine in question.

The box is then lined with a minimum of 2" of foam board to hug the machine snugly on all sides. The goal is to maximize shock absorption by completely immobilizing the machine within the box.

Foot controls and accessories are bubble-wrapped to fit inside the machine. If the accessories do not fit inside the machine we ship them in a separate box.

Machine is wrapped in plastic to prevent foam particles from getting inside the machine.

All cavities are filled with bubblewrap or foam peanuts.

Finally, a foam block is placed across the top of the machine. The block is shaped to fit the machine and protect exposed spindles.

Reinforced tape is used for box seams and all flaps are sealed with heavy-duty packaging tape.

Of course there are other ways to package machines and there are many reputable sellers who take equal pride in their packaging.   Some use shrink wrap or box-within-box packaging, which also work very well. This is just an overview of the process that has served us well for the last 6 years. We've yet to have a machine damaged during shipping. But we always include shipping insurance "just in case."

So if you're looking to buy or sell a vintage machine, take the time to ensure that your investment is well-packaged. There is nothing more disappointing or frustrating than opening the box and finding a broken machine.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

3 Comments

Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

6/15/2013

3 Comments

Single-thread chain stitch basting.

If you've every played with a toy sewing machine, you know what chain stitch looks like.

So maybe you think it's kid stuff.

But did you know that Singer made full-size "grown-up" machines that also sew chain stitch.

What exactly is chain stitch? Is it useful? Which Singer models have a chain stitch feature?

Good questions! Let's answer them.

First let's briefly review how a sewing machine works.

A sewing machine typically has two threads. The top thread passes through the needle and the bottom thread is wound on a bobbin. When the needle point pierces through the fabric it draws the top thread down to where a hook grabs the thread and wraps it around the bobbin thread before releasing the top thread.  When the needle raises back up through the fabric the two threads are "locked" together to form a complete stitch.

Chain stitch is different because it uses a single thread.  When the needle pierces through the fabric, the machine loops the top thread around itself, forming a series of interlocking loops.  From the top it looks like a normal straight stitch, but from the bottom it looks like a chain.

The beauty of chain stitch can also be its fatal flaw, because chain stitched seams can be removed with a single tug on the end thread.

Which is great if you WANT to sew a temporary seam, but a real frustration if need a permanent seam. You can lose an hour's work in seconds if you pull on the wrong thread.

Which is why chain stitch is typically reserved for toys or handheld "quick repair" sewing tools. But there are situations when a temporary stitch is a desirable tool for dressmaking or quilting.

Which is why Singer included chain stitch as a feature on some Slant-o-Matic and Touch & Sew Models.

Which ones? Let's take a look:

411G, 600E, and 603E are notable examples of chain-stitch capability along with steel gears and a slant needle. Most Touch & Sew models have chain stitch capability, but beware of plastic gears!

So if you're looking for a heavy duty machine or quilting machine with the added bonus of chain-stitch basting keep an eye out for one of these remarkable machines!

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.

3 Comments

Thread Control? What the heck is Thread Control?

5/9/2013

8 Comments

When Singer introduced the 500 Slant-o-Matic Rocketeer, it featured a new threading step that Singer called a "thread control."

So what is it? What does it do?

Singer 500A "Thread Control"

"The automatic thread control, located above the tension, ensures a smooth flow of thread from spool to needle. This device eliminates spool weight and drag by pulling off a measured amount of thread before it passes through the tension discs."

- Singer 500 Instruction Manual ©1961

So there you have it straight from the horse's mouth! Thread control is clearly the greatest invention since sliced bread!

So this thread control was a giant leap forward in sewing machine technology, right?

Ummm...not so much, because there's no noticeable difference in stitch quality when comparing the 401A and 500A. Singer apparently came to the same conclusion, because "thread control" disappeared after the early 1960's. It does appear on the German-built 401 and 411 models but then Singer went on to produce the "Touch & Sew" series with a horizontal spool spindle which eliminated spool drag completely.

Alternative threading for Singer 500A

Thread control was so underwhelming that Singer went so far as to distribute an alternate threading guide for the 500 that bypasses the thread control. This threading chart was included in the "Knit Kit" that Singer produced for sewing double-knit fabrics.

I've experimented with both threading methods and I prefer to bypass the thread control because it's faster. And the stitches look just as good without it.

So there you have it...thread control. No, it didn't revolutionize sewing machine technology, but it's still a cool feature that sets the Rocketeer apart.

Visit "Cheat Sheets" page for printable threading guide.

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear!

8 Comments

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Feed-Dog Days of Summer

Under Pressure - Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

Kicked to the Curb: Packaging for Shipping

Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

Thread Control? What the heck is Thread Control?

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Feed-Dog Days of Summer

Under Pressure - Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

Kicked to the Curb: Packaging for Shipping

Just for Kids? Chain Stitch Basting Basics

Thread Control? What the heck is Thread Control?

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