Ahem...must confess I've never used a hemstitcher until now.   Time to rectify that little oversight.  So what exactly does a hemstitcher do?   Well, according to the box it "does real hemstitching."  

Hemstitching is a decorative sewing technique for embellishing the hem of linens, handkerchiefs, or garments.   It is often used in combination with drawn-thread work to create intricate designs.   

In the decades before zig-zag sewing machines revolutionized the industry, Singer offered a wide variety of attachments to add versatility and creativity to straight-stitch machines.   Hemstitching and picot-edging were introduced in 1934 and were a must-have accessory for the home sewing enthusiast. 

So how does it work?  Let's take a look...   

I'll be honest here.  I've experimented with a lot of vintage machines and accessories and this one nearly had me stumped.  Bottom line?   You're going to need the instruction manual AND be prepared to do a lot of experimenting to get the top and bottom tension exactly right.  If you don't have everything just right you'll have intermittent dropped stitches that make for a really mess.  

After quite a bit of trial and error here are my key lessons learned:

1. Throat plate.  Singer sold the hemstitcher with special needle plates (aka throat plates) to elevate the work above the feed-dogs and hold the work firmly in place.  So you'll have to make sure that the needle plate matches your machine.  I got lucky with a recent thrift store find because it came with a Featherweight needle plate (Part Number 121392).   If you have a different machine, check out page 20 of the instruction manual for throat plate part numbers.  
2. Bobbin case.  Make sure the positioning finger of the bobbin case compartment is lined up with gap in the underside of the throat plate.   If not, you'll have a snarled up mess. 
3. Needle.  Of course you'll need a brand-new, sharp point needle inserted with flat side to the left.   Basic, but we've all been there.   
4. Top tension.   You'll want set top tension on the heavy side.   I landed somewhere between 6 and 7 for best results. 
5. Feed regulator.  Set it to neutral - so the machine does not sew forward or backward.   This isn't intuitive because throat plate already lifts the work clear of the feed-dogs.  But I found that feed-dog motion of any kind resulted in dropped stitches. 

There are additional adjustments for needle position and stitch width described in the instruction booklet, but I was able to achieve good results without changing those. 

​And the results are well worth worth the effort if you're looking for a unique finish for garments or linens.  

So if you've got ​one of these nifty gadgets lurking in your sewing drawer, why not give it a try? 

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.