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Hemmed in - SINGER HEMSTITCHER

4/17/2020

9 Comments

 
PictureSinger Hemstitcher and Picot Edger attachment
Ahem...must confess I've never used a hemstitcher until now.   Time to rectify that little oversight.  So what exactly does a hemstitcher do?   Well, according to the box it "does real hemstitching."  

Hemstitching is a decorative sewing technique for embellishing the hem of linens, handkerchiefs, or garments.   It is often used in combination with drawn-thread work to create intricate designs.   

In the decades before zig-zag sewing machines revolutionized the industry, Singer offered a wide variety of attachments to add versatility and creativity to straight-stitch machines.   Hemstitching and picot-edging were introduced in 1934 and were a must-have accessory for the home sewing enthusiast. 

So how does it work?  Let's take a look...   

PictureBobbin case base positioning finger aligned with special throat plate.
I'll be honest here.  I've experimented with a lot of vintage machines and accessories and this one nearly had me stumped.  Bottom line?   You're going to need the instruction manual AND be prepared to do a lot of experimenting to get the top and bottom tension exactly right.  If you don't have everything just right you'll have intermittent dropped stitches that make for a really mess.  

After quite a bit of trial and error here are my key lessons learned:
  1. Throat plate.  Singer sold the hemstitcher with special needle plates (aka throat plates) to elevate the work above the feed-dogs and hold the work firmly in place.  So you'll have to make sure that the needle plate matches your machine.  I got lucky with a recent thrift store find because it came with a Featherweight needle plate (Part Number 121392).   If you have a different machine, check out page 20 of the instruction manual for throat plate part numbers.  
  2. Bobbin case.  Make sure the positioning finger of the bobbin case compartment is lined up with gap in the underside of the throat plate.   If not, you'll have a snarled up mess. 
  3. Needle.  Of course you'll need a brand-new, sharp point needle inserted with flat side to the left.   Basic, but we've all been there.   
  4. Top tension.   You'll want set top tension on the heavy side.   I landed somewhere between 6 and 7 for best results. 
  5. Feed regulator.  Set it to neutral - so the machine does not sew forward or backward.   This isn't intuitive because throat plate already lifts the work clear of the feed-dogs.  But I found that feed-dog motion of any kind resulted in dropped stitches. 

PictureFinished hemstitching and picot edging.
There are additional adjustments for needle position and stitch width described in the instruction booklet, but I was able to achieve good results without changing those. 

​And the results are well worth worth the effort if you're looking for a unique finish for garments or linens.  


So if you've got ​one of these nifty gadgets lurking in your sewing drawer, why not give it a try? 

Happy Sewing!
Barbara

OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.   

9 Comments
Kathy Wilhelm
4/18/2021 03:47:13 pm

I am looking for someone who can machine henstitch some pillow cases for me to thread crochet onto. Do you know of anyone?

Reply
Meg
1/6/2022 04:45:28 pm

Great article! Very helpful. I have a singer 201-2 and the hemstitcher, I was having some trouble them realized I am missing the rubber pads that contact with the fabric! Any ideas for how to replace these? I was thinking heat shrink insulation? Did you have to replace yours? Thanks for your help!

Reply
Pat
3/15/2022 11:16:18 am

Meg, all you need is some heatshrink tubing, cut to fit and use heat to shrink it. Works great.

Reply
Meg
3/15/2022 04:54:57 pm

Thank you for your reply! I'm going to try it

Faye Kroese
5/16/2022 06:00:36 pm

Do you know if there is a hemstitcher and picot attachment for the Singer 301a?

Reply
Lisa
12/8/2022 02:33:45 pm

No, this attachment only came in a low shank version, and the 301 of course is slant shank. I always wished they'd made an updated version for slant shank and/or zigzag machines.

Reply
Anna
8/14/2022 12:35:11 pm

I am trying to use this attachment but it keeps dropping the stitches on the zig zag part. I see you suggest turning the feed regulator to neutral, how do you do that?

Reply
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