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Disc-o-mania!  Special Discs & Fashion Discs

5/2/2013

26 Comments

 
PictureSpecial Disc compartment, Singer 401A
So you just bought a 401 or 403 or 328 and you're wondering what the heck that little door in the top is for. 

Maybe there's a thingamajig in there, or maybe it's just a gaping hole.  Now you can't sleep at night...it's driving you crazy!
 

PictureFashion Disc compartment, Singer 328K
Have no fear!  The Disc Doctor is here!

No, not really.  But I can shed a little light on the subject. 

From the 1950's into the early 1960's, Singer manufactured three basic kinds of machines: straight-stitch, semi-automatic zigzag, and fully automatic zigzag.

For example, the 400-series model lineup includes one of each type.  The 404 is a straight-stitch model, the 403 is a semi-automatic zigzag, and the 401 is a fully automatic zigzag. 

Zigzag stitching is produced when the needle bar is moved from side to side.  The side-to-side motion is created when the internal mechanism is pushed by bumps on a revolving template.  The template is called a cam, like the cams that drive pistons in a car engine.

If the cam is permanently built into the machine, then it's fully automatic.  If the cam is removable or interchangable, then it's a semi-automatic.  If there are no cams it's a straight-stitch only.  

Side-by-side comparison of the inner workings of the 400-series slant needle machines:
 
Picture
401:  fully automatic
Picture
403:  semi-automatic
Picture
404: straight-stitch only
If you purchased a semi-automatic machine you needed a set of insertable cams to create zigzag and decorative stitches.  Singer called these cams "Fashion Discs" or "Special Discs." 

Fashion Disc?  Special Disc?  What's the difference?

Singer produced two styles of discs.  The first style is smaller, completely flat, and requires a screw cap to hold it in place. The second style is larger and has a raised center that looks a bit like a hat, which is why they are sometimes called “top hat” cams.  This type of disc snaps into place without a screw cap.

Here they are, side by side:
Picture
Special Disc for Singer slant needle sewing machines
Picture
Fashion Disc for Singer vertical needle machines
Both discs are made from a hard, black “Bakelite” type plastic and both accomplish the same task.  So why is one called a “Fashion”disc and the other a “Special” disc?  

Strictly speaking, both types of discs are "Fashion”discs.  But Singer typically referred to slant needle discs as "Special" discs. Therefore I refer to all slant needle discs as “Special Discs” and vertical needle discs as “Fashion Discs.”
 
Picture

But...the instruction book for my 403 instruction book says "Fashion Disc" not "Special Disc"...

You are right, Singer used both "Special" and "Fashion" when referring to the "top hat" style disc, and it's confusing because there's only one kind of disc for slant needle machines.  

For example, the instructions for semi-automatic machines (403, 503, 603), use the term "Fashion Disc," while the instructions for fully automatic machines (401, 411, 500, 600) use the term "Special Disc." 
Picture
The difference is that fully automatic machines had to have the stitch selector set to "Special" for the disc to work.  However, the semi-automatic models don't have a "Special" setting, so the manual refers to "Fashion" discs. 

However, the discs are identical, so it's simpler to call ALL slant needle discs "Special Discs" to distinguish them from the smaller flat disc used in vertical needle machines.

The 401, 411, 500, and 600 machines don't need Special Discs to produce decorative stitches, but their stitch variety is greatly enhanced by Special Discs.

Singer was not the only sewing machine manufacturer using interchangeable discs.  Other brands used similar technology to produce zigzag and decorative stitches.  Elna and Necchi were pioneers in using double- and triple-decker discs to produce complex stitches which required the machine to stitch forward and backwards, such as the Greek key pattern or buttonholes. 
Picture
Elna Discs. Note the double-decker discs in the back row.
Picture
Necchi Supernova Discs. Individual discs could be combined into triple-decker units.
By comparison, Singer did not feature double-decker discs until the 700-series Touch & Sew machines.  

If you haven't already experimented with your machine's discs, I highly recommend giving it a try.  Whether your machine uses Special Discs or Fashion Discs, that little trapdoor is the gateway to a world of stitching variety!
 

Happy Sewing!
Barbara
OldSewinGear...dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear.
26 Comments
Alex
1/23/2014 07:23:33 am

Hi there,

This was so helpful! I just bought a singer 758 off of craigslist with the hopes of teaching myself to sew. However it didn't come with the discs! I only figured this out after I got home too.... It's good to know that I can use it still without discs, though it would be nice to have some. do you happen to know of any providers (online/that ship) I could get a set of discs from??

Reply
OldSewinGear
1/23/2014 09:33:50 am

Alex,
The best source of discs online is eBay. Your 758 uses a later style of disc called a "Flexi-Stitch" disc. These discs are off-white in color rather than black. Look for a seller with a good feedback rating and do some comparison shopping for a fair price. Hope you find what you are looking for!
Barbara for OldSewinGear

Reply
Elliott
3/2/2014 10:06:26 am

Thanks for the introduction to these discs! Could you tell me if flexi-stitch discs and fashion discs are interchangeable? I know that there are 'top hat' style flexi-stitch discs, and there are some patterns on them that I like. My 648 takes fashion discs, though, and I don't know if I could use a top-hat variety flexi-stitch disc with it.

Reply
OldSewinGear
5/28/2014 03:07:20 am

Sorry I somehow missed responding to your question back in March. Flexi-stitch and fashion discs aren't really interchangeable. I've found that the later discs don't always snap firmly into place in the older machines. I've had some success with using a dremel to make them seat more firmly but I don't recommend it.
Thanks for asking, Barbara

Reply
Richard Beman
2/28/2015 02:04:25 am

Hello, the model #648 was the last of the "cam driven only" 600 series Touch and Sew machines.. It did not have the ability to use the cream colored "Flexi-Disks". It can use all the black "Top Hat" cams except for the # 40 (basting stitch- orange decal).. When the # 700 series arrived all the "Top Hat and Flexi-Stitch " cams could be used..
Happy sewing !!!

Reply
Sara
5/25/2014 10:47:47 am

Could I use discs from a 648 in my new (old) 503, which came with no discs.? Somebody has a full set for very little and I'd jump on it of I could,

Thanks. New to anything beyond a featherweight.

Reply
OldSewinGear
5/28/2014 03:09:07 am

Sara,
648 discs should work just fine in your 503. As long as they are the black top-hat style disc with a slim center you should be good to go. (Later Touch & Sew discs have a fatter center post and three additional holes and they sometimes don't snap into place.)
Thanks for visiting!
Barbara

Reply
Ruth Berson
9/2/2014 02:21:43 am

So glad Google took me by the hand and led me to this site
I have a 60s-ish Singer with Fashion Discs (my grandmother's), only when I put one in, nothing changes and the machine still sews straight stitches. Actually, even if I put the Bight selector on 4 or 5, it STILL only sews straight stitches. Any light you can shed on this problem?
Thanks,
Ruth

Reply
Adeline Violas
12/20/2014 03:01:34 am

You will still need to adjust the stitch length and width and use the proper letter position to get the actual stitch. When in doubt, experiment! Then note the settings you liked. I sometimes keep little 3x5 samples on an index card to refer to once I find a stitch variation
I like. The cams give you lots of variation on each disc.

Reply
bertie
9/6/2021 08:39:39 am

My 319K (from 1958) takes original Fashion Discs and also has built-in stitches. When I first tried the machine it wouldn't do anything but straight stitch but it was nothing to do with settings - the mechanism was so gummed up with old oil that the spring couldn't pull it back, so the needle went to one side and stayed there. I'd try applying a little pressure from side to side on the needle bar while turning the machine by hand to see if it can be persuaded to move. You may need to apply a light lubricant (I prefer GT85) to soften and wash out the old oil, before wiping down and applying proper sewing machine oil.

Reply
L Brock
7/19/2015 05:48:59 am

hi i have a singer machine model 2515c serial no
C 13313225 which i purchased new in 1992 please could you tell me if there is a blanket stitch disk available and if so where would i be able to purchase one from hope to hear from you soon many thanks

Reply
Lauren
12/23/2015 05:31:19 am

Hi,

I received my grandmother's singer 328k and after finding the manual online learned it has capabilities beyond the straight and zig zag stitches. I found an eBay listing with part 21976 and am wondering if the fashion discs are compatible with my 328k. The listing only mentions model 600, 625 and 628. I also found a buttonholing attachment, part 161829 and am wondering if it's compatible as well. Thank you!

Cheers,
Lauren

Reply
OldSewinGear
1/3/2016 03:37:40 pm

Lauren,
Discs for the 600 (top-hat style) will not work on your 328. The discs you want will fit the 328 or 306 machines. There are part numbers for the discs on the Gallery page for Fashion Discs. Hope this helps!

Reply
Julie Zuckman
2/18/2016 08:25:43 pm

Hi, I have a 328k and disks. Only the ZZ works. When I load in any other disk, I get a straight stitch. I've tried fiddling with all the settings (which are L/C/R and 0-6) -- nothing. The mechanism itself seems to move freely. Unlike the 403/401, there's not much to see or play with inside the cam apparatus. Any thoughts? Thanks so much.

Reply
Jules S
12/5/2020 08:55:58 pm

I just brought home a 328K today. I can go from straight to zig zag using the horizontal stitch width selector. Position 0 is straight stitch. You can see it working if you open the top cover door. When it is not in the 0 position, the mechanism rides along the fashion disc cam as the machine rotates making the selected pattern. When it is in the 0 position it gets pushed away from and off of the disc and stays put, making a straight stitch.

Reply
Adriaan
6/7/2017 07:10:11 am

Hi there! Sorry to point out errors in your post, as nice and informative a post that it is; but the flat discs aren't just for vertical needled machines as you put it. Singer released a slant-needle model that uses flat fashion discs. It is called the Singer 675U, It's a model that can be driven by a treadle, has a slant needle, and uses the older flat cam discs.

Reply
Linda
7/27/2017 05:01:04 am

Hi, I have a singer 328k with only one flat disk. I went to a yard sale and bought three boxes of top hat disk is there anyway to make these fit my machine? I have know idea what the top hats go to. One box has 1- 30 gray ones, another box says zigzag design cams and it contains 1-24 gray ones, and finally have a box that says wards signature it has two heavy metal top hats and numbers 1,3,6,7,9,10,11,12, and a white top hat also has two metal pins
Thank you any help would be greatly appreciated
Linda

Reply
Janet Roscovich
8/23/2017 05:51:53 am

I'm looking for the case of fashion discs that came with a Pfaff, model 92 (over 50 years old). They were contained in a grey plastic slotted case.

Reply
Joy Grigsby
10/19/2017 02:59:20 pm

I'm looking for a set of cams for my Singer Model #328K Style-O-Matic sewing machine. I only have the #37 zig zag disc and would like to purchase replacement cams. All my other cams disappeared when I moved recently.

Reply
CK
12/24/2017 04:16:34 pm

Joy try Sewingpartsonline.com - I too have a 328k and only have 1 fashion disc (#13) that it came with. I don't want all the fashion disc just the #1 for zigzag and found this site to be very helpful with said parts.

Reply
Sally Gerschefske
3/10/2020 07:41:28 pm

Did the Golden touch and sew come with a cam in the machine, besides the ones in a plastic container. I do not have a plain zigzag came.

Reply
walter sifuentes romani
9/5/2020 09:21:39 pm

disco patron de bakelita roja zig zag, singer 107w1

Reply
Mary Ann Thorburne
3/12/2021 09:48:14 am

My husband found an old Sewmore Deluxe ZigZag 939 in a cabinet sitting on the side of the road and brought it home to me, after cleaning her up nice and shiny, she powers up and already have a new belt ordered as the current one is dry rotted, sadly the cams weren't with it. What cams are compatible with it?

Reply
Carol
1/14/2022 12:11:10 pm

I have a very heavy singer 8280 singer with no cams
What type of cam does this model have pls.

Reply
Name
1/15/2022 04:22:53 am

The 8280 has internal cams. Rotate the lower knob to change the stitch design.

Reply
Ariana Wortman
3/19/2022 09:06:59 am

I recently bought a Nelco Super, that I believe is a golden stitch series. I have been able to find very little information on this particular machine. But it takes fashion discs. Any ideas on compatible sizes?

Reply



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