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Leather sewing tips

4/7/2013

10 Comments

 
PictureBelt leather sewn on Singer 15-91
In today's economy, leather-sewing capability can be an important factor in selecting a sewing machine. 

Whether you are a crafter, a do-it-yourself-er, or a cottage industry entrepreneur, the ability to sew leather is a real advantage. 


You have a couple of options for sewing leather.  If you plan on high-speed, high-production leather-sewing, then you will need a commercial leather machine.   But if you just need to occasionally sew soft leather for garments or handbags, then a heavy duty household model can do the job. 

That is why vintage machines are so popular today.  The all-metal machines of the 40's, 50's and early 60's are "industrial strength" in our modern world.


    "Industrial Strength"...???

According to Merriam-Webster, "industrial strength" is defined as: "marked by more than usual power, durability, or intensity."   Oxford defines it as "very strong or powerful." 

Which means that an "industrial strength" sewing machine is NOT an industrial or commercial machine, but it is stronger than the typical household sewing machine.  By today's plastic-happy standards, the all-metal vintage machines are certainly "industrial strength."

In fact, most vintage machines will sew leather goods with some care and consideration.  The following tips will help:
 
  • Set stitch length to the maximum.
  • Reduce upper thread tension.  The thicker the leather, the looser the tension.
  • Increase presser foot pressure to hold leather firmly. 
  • Use a large, leather-point needle.  Singer leather needles are available in size 14 and 16.  Schmetz leather point needles are available up to size 18.  Visit the Singer and Schmetz websites for needle charts.  
  • Always use the handwheel to start the needle moving.  Do not engage the motor until the needle is moving and coming up out of the leather.   
  • Sew at very slow speed, assisting with the handwheel as needed.
  • Do not push or pull on the leather, this can cause the needle to bind or break and may also interfere with the timing.
  • When turning a corner, walk the needle by hand.  Do not pivot the leather until the needle is coming up out of the leather, otherwise it may drop the last stitch. 
  • Avoid backstitching as this can "perforate" the leather and cause it to tear along the stitch line.
  • Never force the machine.  If the needle will not pierce the leather using the handwheel, STOP. 
Sewing leather on Singer 401Jacket leather sewn on Singer 401A
Gear-drive machines will usually sew leather more easily than belt-drive machines because they are less likely to slip or stall.  

Keep in mind that the density and hardness of leather goods vary widely. 

The thickness of the leather and the type of tanning process will dictate how much punching power is needed to pierce and sew.  Some leathers simply cannot be sewn on a household machine.  

An "industrial strength" vintage machine is a good choice for fashion garments and accessories or the occasional heavy duty repair, but it's not a good choice for day-in, day-out leather sewing.

A true industrial or commercial machine is the best choice for motorcycle leathers, saddlery, or daily, high-production leather sewing.

So, do you need to sew leather?  If you slow down and take your time, you may be surprised at what your vintage machine can do!  

Happy sewing!
Barbara

10 Comments
wendy
12/6/2014 12:20:35 am

I'm attempting to sew decorative stitches on thin leather on the 401. I can sew the stitch I'm attempting on fabric, it goes thru the leather and makes the mark as if it's making the stitch, but it's not making the stitches. Your post stays long stitch length which tosses out my idea of decorative stitches. Is there anyway to make this 401 stitch the decorative stitches on thin leather?

Reply
OldSewinGear
12/6/2014 01:49:38 am

Wendy,
You should be able to do some decorative stitching in thin leather, but it can be tricky. Make sure you're using appropriate needle and thread. Then try reducing your thread tension and narrowing the stitch width a bit. Regarding stitch length, you do run the risk that the leather will be weakened (like a perforated edge on paper) by closely spaced stitches. Backing the leather with some kind of facing fabric will help prevent tearing.
Hope this helps!
Barbara for OldSewinGear

Reply
Alexander link
3/27/2016 08:02:25 pm

'Lo there-
I've got an issue with my own stupidity having caused a problem on a 15-91 Centennial model. I ran some thin, soft suede through, thinking it would be fine to just go a 16 needle and let it do the work.
I do not think I actually messed the timing, did a teardown of the case and timing check against the shaft marks, looks right and nothing I can tell is loose.
But it won't make a stitch anymore. It tries, then it just stops.
It loops and gathers the bobbin thread right when threading, drawing it up through the throat plate which is a sign the timing is correct, right?
I tore it down, cleaned everything with solvent, including the shuttle itself. Tried winding the bobbin over and also under (Not knowing if this mattered). No joy.
Worst of all this is my wife's machine and she's in the middle of a project. I just bought it for her in December but still, she's eager for me to figure it out.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Alexander & Liz in Gloucester Ma.

Reply
Alexander link
3/28/2016 06:17:49 am

Truly amazed at how such a simple mistake could have led me through such hours of frustration.

The needle was flat side to the machine instead of away.

I now have the cleanest machine ever, though.
Thanks.

Reply
Harmeet link
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best sewing machine for leather link
3/5/2018 01:38:52 am

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4/5/2018 10:45:02 pm


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Bob link
10/8/2020 06:55:02 pm

I like what you said about setting the stitch length at maximum. I need to get some shirts sewn for a school play. I'll have to consider getting a sewing machine that isn't too outdated for the task.

Reply



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